WILLIAMSBURG.
Washington's birthday. How well Virginians have emulated his
example and teachings is this day apparent. God pity, the Mother of Presidents.
This classic old town, next to Jamestown, is the oldest in
the state. It is full of historical reminiscences and a great field for the
antiquarian. Until near the close of the 17th century this was simply a suburb
of Jamestown and was called the middle plantation. After the burning of
Jamestown by Bacon and the accession of William III to the throne, matters here
began to assume a brighter aspect. Situated midway between the York and James
rivers, which are here four miles apart, and enjoying the patronage of the
king, the colonists became ambitious and thought the town would extend each way
to the rivers and become the London of the New World.
For some time the founding of a college had been agitated
and after the accession of William the charter was granted, he making large
endowments of land and money in furtherance of the object. This was the second
college in the British colonies, and in honor of the king and queen was named
William and Mary. The great object of it was to educate in Virginia a
succession of Church of England clergymen. After the erection of the college
the town was laid out and named Williamsburg in honor of the king. From this
time, under the patronage of the king and gentlemen of rank and wealth who came
over and took up settlement, the town went ahead. A church, state-house and
other public buildings were erected. An immense residence was built for the
colonial governors and called the King James palace.
The town was the capital of the state or colony, and here
the burgesses were wont to meet. It grew in population and wealth, and up to
the time of the breaking out of the revolution was the most aristocratic and
loyal town in all the colonies. The first thing that disturbed this truly loyal
people was the debates in the house of burgesses on the stamp act, about the
year 1765. Patrick Henry, then a young man and just elected to the house,
opposed the act and with all his powers of reasoning and eloquence, advocated
resistance to it. In these debates he gained the displeasure of some of the
older members and especially those resident here. At this time Thomas
Jefferson, a student in the college here, began to get interested in public
affairs; he often looked in on the house of burgesses and listened to the
debates, and a dozen years afterwards, in his declaration of independence,
shone out the principles he there learned. Henry continued a member of the
house of burgesses for several years, advocating the cause of the colonies, and
in the Virginia convention to choose delegates to attend a congress of the
colonies to be holden at Philadelphia to draft a declaration, he advocated it
with all his impassioned eloquence, closing with those memorabile words: “I
know not what others may think, but as for me, give me liberty or give me death!”
About the time that Governor Gage of Massachusetts attempted
to seize the stores at Concord, a similar proceeding took place here, under the
direction of Lord Dunmore, the colonial governor. At midnight Capt. Collins of
the armed schooner Magdalen, with a company of marines, entered the town and
carried off twenty barrels of powder from the public magazine. This so incensed
the people in the adjoining counties that they rose in arms and demanded a
return of the powder or they would march on the town. Dunmore, becoming
frightened, moved his family aboard a ship at Jamestown, and some of the
leading citizens quieted the people by promising them the powder should be
returned or paid for. But those promises were not kept, and Patrick Henry, at
the head of about 1500 militia moved on the town, declaring he would have the
powder or would make a reprisal from the public treasury. When within about
fifteen miles from here he was met by a courier who paid for the powder, thus ending
the expedition.
A year or two afterwards Henry was chosen governor of the
colony, and on his coming here brought with him quite a force of militia. On
Henry's approach Gov. Dunmore went aboard a vessel and the fleet sailed down
the river. Lord Dunmore was the last colonial governor and the last occupant of
the palace. Ilenry so hated everything that pertained to kings or royalty that
he positively refused to occupy the palace, and it was left to go to decay and
ruins. Nothing now remains of it save the foundations and a few scattering
bricks.
WILLIAM AND MARY COLLEGE.
Is now a mass of ruins; a company of the 11th Pennsylvania
cavalry were the vandals. As this company were returning from a scout they were
fired on with one or two shots from out the college as they were riding past.
Instead of surrounding the building and capturing the murderers, they set it on
fire and burned it to the ground. This college was located at the extreme
western end of the town, and was a fine brick building over 100 feet in length
and three stories high, with two tower entrances about 80 feet apart, in one of
which was a fine bell. In front is a large park, coming to a point, forming the
main entrance some 30 rods in front of the building. On each side of the gate
are large live oak trees. In this park are situated four large old English
style houses, two on each side and facing each other. They are about 40 feet
square, two stories high, with a four-cornered roof coming to a point at the
top. These were the residences of the officers and tutors of the college.
The college stands facing down the main street, which is
quite a mile long; straight as a line and very wide, giving a fine view from
the college. This is the second or third time that this college has been
burned, but this last time seems to have been without cause or reason.
THE EPISCOPAL CHURCH,
An antiquated structure of gothic architecture, its brown
spire and slender turrets pointing to where man's heart should oftener turn, is
situated near the center of the town. It is built of brick brought over from
England; they are very different in shape and color from those made in this
country. There are no services held here now, but that doesn't matter much as
it needs something more than the grace of God to keep this people in the line
of duty and loyalty to the government. Their great need just at present is
gunpowder. The churchyard contains over an acre, and is a cemetery where
countless generations sleep forgot, and where rests his head upon the lap of
earth the youth to fortune and to fame unknown.
THE OLD STATE HOUSE.
Situated not far from the church, is a plain old brick
building about 60 feet long and about 30 feet wide, built on a basement story.
The entrance is from a portico reached by a wide flight of steps. Here in these
classic halls have been discussed grave questions of state-the destinies of the
colonies, and as one walks through them, he can easily imagine he hears the
voice of Patrick Henry saying: “The next gale that sweeps from the north will
bring to your ears the clash of resounding arms."
THE INSANE ASYLUM
Is a large, massive, prison-looking building, filled with
the unfortunate wards of the State of Virginia, but who are now the wards of
the nation, and are being well and tenderly cared for. On pleasant days the
mild and harmless patients have the liberty of the yard, which is spacious,
well laid out and set with trees. At the entrance gates are small brick houses
into which they can go when so disposed. At the gates they will stand and talk
with the passers-by, asking a thousand questions and all manner of favors. Some
of them are intelligent and will converse for a few minutes in a rational
manner, when they will switch off on their crazy talk and lingo. This is said
to be the oldest insane institution in the United States, having been
founded previous to the revolutionary war, but the present building would
seem to be of more recent construction.
KING JAMES' PALACE.
I have not been able to get much history of this, when or by
whom it was built, and the only tradition I have been able to gather is that it
was a magnificent and gorgeous establishment, where the colonial governors
lived in great pomp and state. All there is left of it now is a small piece of
brick work about four feet high on one of the south-west corners or angles. It
was situated on the north side of the town, and back some 30 or 40 rods from
the main street on which it fronted. It is difficult to form much of an idea of
this building, as only the foundations are left, and a part of these are only
dimly traced; but it must have been a very extensive affair. It was all of 125
feet front and 50 feet deep, with two wings in the rear extending back nearly
100 feet, leaving an open court or garden. The foundations on the front and
ends show several angles, as though fashioned after some of the old English
castles. The height of it can only be guessed, but probably it was not less
than three stories.
The grounds and gardens which surrounded it were extensive,
and must have been tastefully laid out, if one can judge by tracing the old
walls, and by the few remaining shrubs and bushes which survive. The grounds in
front extended to the street, making a lawn or park of some two or three acres.
This has been a good deal curtailed, having been built over on three sides,
leaving a common or park on the street of about an acre, called the Palace
Green. Why such an establishment as this was. built in this wilderness is only
a matter of conjecture. It certainly was far beyond the needs of the colonial
governors, and was probably built with an eye to its being a convenient refuge
for royalty in case of adverse fortunes at home. Why it should have been left
to decay and ruin is more than we at this day can understand. After the
loyalists had left on the breaking out of the war, there probably was no
one who cared enough about it to look after it, and the colonists so
hated everything that pertained to royalty that it was left to the bats and
owls, and in time went to ruin. Patrick Henry refused to occupy it while
governor, and his successors followed his example. Egad! but what good cheer
and right royal times must have been had here in those good old colony times,
but the old palace to ruins has gone, leaving no memories or associations
clustering around it save that it was the king's palace.
SOURCE: David L. Day, My Diary of Rambles with the
25th Mass. Volunteer Infantry, p. 124-8
