We started again at 1.30 A.M. in a smaller coach, but
luckily with reduced numbers, viz. — the Louisianian Judge (who is also a
legislator), a Mississippi planter, the boatswain, the Government agent, and a Captain
Williams, of the Texas Rangers.
Before the day broke we reached a bridge over a stream
called Mud Creek, which was in such a dilapidated condition that all hands had
to get out and cover over the biggest holes with planks. The Government agent
informed us that he still held a commission as adjutant-general to ——. The
latter, it appears, is a cross between a guerilla and a horse thief, and, even
by his adjutant-general's account, he seems to be an equal adept at both
professions. The accounts of his forays in Arkansas were highly amusing, but
rather strongly seasoned for a legitimate soldier.
The Judge was a very gentlemanlike nice old man. Both he and
the adjutant-general were much knocked up by the journey; but I revived the
former with the last of the Immortality rum. The latter was in very weak health,
and doesn't expect to live long; but he ardently hoped to destroy a few more
bluebellies”* before he “goes under.”
The Mississippi planter had abandoned his estate near
Vicksburg, and withdrawn with the remnant of his slaves into Texas. The Judge
also had lost all his property in New Orleans. In fact, every other man one
meets has been more or less ruined since the war, but all speak of their losses
with the greatest equanimity.
Captain Williams was a tall, cadaverous backwoodsman, who
had lost his health in the war. He spoke of the Federal general, Rosecrans,
with great respect, and he passed the following high encomium upon the North-Western
troops, under Rosecrans's command —
“They're reglar great big h—llsnorters, the same breed as
ourselves. They don't want no running after, — they don't. They ain't no Dutch
cavalry† — you bet!”
To my surprise all the party were willing to agree that a
few years ago most educated men in the south regarded slavery as a misfortune
and not justifiable, though necessary under the circumstances. But the meddling,
coercive conduct of the detested and despised abolitionists had caused the
bonds to be drawn much tighter.
My fellow-travellers of all classes are much given to talk
to me about their “peculiar institution,” and they are most anxious that I
should see as much of it as possible, in order that I may be convinced that it
is not so bad as has been represented, and that they are not all “Legrees,”
although they do not attempt to deny that there are many instances of cruelty.
But they say a man who is known to illtreat his negroes is hated by all the
rest of the community. They declare that Yankees make the worst masters when
they settle in the South; and all seem to be perfectly aware that slavery,
which they did not invent, but which they inherited from us (English), is and
always will be the great bar to the sympathy of the civilised world. I have
heard these words used over and over again.
All the villages through which we passed were deserted
except by women and very old men; their aspect was most melancholy. The country
is sandy and the land not fertile, but the timber is fine.
We met several planters on the road, who with their families
and negroes were taking refuge in Texas, after having abandoned their
plantations in Louisiana on the approach of Banks. One of them had as many as
sixty slaves with him of all ages and sizes.
At 7 P.M. we received an unwelcome addition to our party, in
the shape of three huge, long-legged, unwashed, odoriferous Texan soldiers, and
we passed a wretched night in consequence. The Texans are certainly not prone
to take offence where they see none is intended; for when this irruption took
place, I couldn't help remarking to the Judge with regard to the most obnoxious
man who was occupying the centre seat to our mutual discomfort, — “I say,
Judge, this gentleman has got the longest legs I ever saw.” “Has he?” replied
the Judge; “and he has got the d----dest, longest, hardest back I ever felt.”
The Texan was highly amused by these remarks upon his personal appearance, and
apologised for his peculiarities.
Crossed the Sabine river at 11.30 P.M.
_______________
* The Union soldiers are called “bluebellies” on account of
their blue uniforms. These often call the Confederates “greybacks."
† German dragoons, much despised by the Texans on account of
their style of riding.
SOURCE: Sir Arthur James Lyon Fremantle, Three Months
in the Southern States: April-June, 1863, p. 77-80
