When we roused up at 4 A.M. we found our clothes saturated
with the heavy dew; also that, notwithstanding our exertions, the hogs had
devoured the greatest part of our pet kid, our only fresh meat.
After feeding our mules upon the Indian corn we had brought
with us, and drinking a little more saltwater coffee, the Judge “hitched in,”
and we got under way at 5.30 A.M. The country just the same as yesterday — a
dead level of sand, mosquite trees, and prickly pears.
At 7.30 A.M. we reached “Leatham's ranch,” and watered our
mules. As the water was tolerable, we refilled our water-barrels. I also washed
my face, during which operation Mr. Sargent expressed great astonishment, not
unmingled with contempt.
At Leatham's we met a wealthy Texan speculator and
contractor called Major or Judge Hart.
I find that our Judge is also an M.P., and that, in
his capacity as a member of the Texan legislature, he is entitled to be styled
the Honourable —— ——.
At 9 A.M. we halted in the middle of a prairie, on which
there was a little grass for the mules, and we prepared to eat. In the midst of
our cooking, two deer came up quite close to us, and could easily have been
killed with rifles.
We saw quantities of rat-ranches, which are big sort of
mole-hills, composed of cow-dung, sticks, and earth, built by the rats.
Mr. Sargent, our conductor, is a very rough customer — a
fat, middle-aged man, who never opens his mouth without an oath, strictly
American in its character. He and the judge are always snarling at one another,
and both are much addicted to liquor.
We live principally on bacon and coffee, but as the water
and the bacon are both very salt, this is very inconvenient. We have, however,
got some claret, and plenty of brandy.
During the mid-day halts Mr. Sargent is in the habit of cooling
himself by removing his trousers (or pants), and, having gorged himself, he
lies down and issues his edicts to the judge as to the treatment of the mules.
At 2.30 the M.P. hitched in again, and at 2.45 we reached a
salt-water arm of the sea called the “Aroyo del Colorado,” about eighty yards
broad, which we crossed in a ferry-boat. Half an hour later we “struck water”
again, which, being superior to Leatham's, we filled up.
We are continually passing cotton trains going to
Brownsville, also government waggons with stores for the interior. Near every
well is a small farm or ranch, a
miserable little wooden edifice surrounded by a little cultivation. The natives
all speak Spanish, and wear the Mexican dress.
M'Carthy is very proud of his knowledge of the country, in
spite of which he is often out in his calculations. The different tracks are so
similar to one another, they are easily mistaken.
At 4.45 P.M. we halted at a much better place than
yesterday. We are obliged to halt where a little grass can be found for our
mules.
Soon after we had unpacked for the night, six Texan Rangers,
of “Wood's” regiment, rode up to us. They were very picturesque fellows; tall,
thin, and ragged, but quite gentlemanlike in their manners.
We are always to sleep in the open until we arrive at San
Antonio, and I find my Turkish lantern most useful at night.*
_______________
* A lantern for a candle, made of white linen and wire,
which collapses when not in use. They are always used in the streets of
Constantinople. The Texans admired it immensely.
SOURCE: Sir Arthur James Lyon Fremantle, Three
months in the southern states: April-June, 1863, p. 27-9
