[W]e took a morning
ride, Mrs. Welles being able to go with us, and drove about the place.
Returning to the wharf, we took a tug, visited the Pawnee, and then went to
Sumter, Moultrie, Fort Johnston, etc. The day was beautiful and all enjoyed it.
There was both
sadness and gratification in witnessing the devastation of the city and the
deplorable condition of this seat of the Rebellion. No place has suffered more
or deserved to have suffered more. Here was the seat of Southern aristocracy.
The better blood — the superior class, as they considered themselves — here
held sway and dictated the policy, not only of Charleston but of South
Carolina, and ultimately of the whole South. The power of association and of
exclusiveness has here been exemplified and the consequences that follow from
the beginning of evil. Not that the aristocracy had more vigorous intellects,
greater ability, for they had not, yet their wealth, their ancestry, the usage
of the community gave them control.
Mr. Calhoun, the
leading genius and master mind of the State, was not one of the élite, the
first families, but was used, nursed, and favored by them, and they by him. He acknowledged
their supremacy and deferred to them; they recognized his talents and gave him
position. He pandered to their pride; they fostered his ambition.
Rhett, one of the
proudest of the nobility, had the ambition of Calhoun without his ability, yet
he was not destitute of a certain degree of smartness, which stimulated his
aspirations. More than any one else, perhaps, has he contributed to
precipitating this Rebellion and brought these terrible calamities on his State
and country. The gentlemanly, elegant, but brilliantly feeble intellects of his
class had the vanity to believe they could rule, or establish a Southern
empire. Their young men had read Scott's novels, and considered themselves to
be knights and barons bold, sons of chivalry and romance, born to fight and to
rule. Cotton they knew to be king, and slavery created cotton. They used these
to combine other weak minds at the South, and had weak and willing tools to
pander to them in certain partisans at the North.
The results of their
theory and the fruits of their labors are to be seen in this ruined city and
this distressed people. Luxury, refinement, happiness have fled from
Charleston; poverty is enthroned there. Having sown error, she has reaped
sorrow. She has been, and is, punished. I rejoice that it is so.
On Monday evening we
left for Savannah, but, a storm coming on, the Santiago put into Port Royal,
having lost sight of our consort. It had been our intention to stop at this
place on our return, but, being here, we concluded to finish our work, and
accordingly went up to Beaufort. Returning, we visited Hilton Head and Fort
Welles on invitation from General Gillmore.